Ice Climbing

Ouray, Colorado is a special place. It is known as the Switzerland of America. It is a small town of 800 nestled in a quaint valley surrounded by rocky ledges and cliff walls. Outstanding views, great hikes and world-renowned ice climbing make Ouray a popular tourist destination. It is also where I went to high school. My parents still live there, which brings me back on a regular basis.

During this visit, my husband Mark and I were there to practice our ice climbing skills in preparation for our upcoming trip to Alaska. We hiked up Camp Bird Road, looking for routes to climb the next day. As we hiked I reminisced with him about my childhood; sledding uphill behind a friend’s truck, skipping school to ski in Telluride, and my first kiss, a total disaster (we both closed our eyes and he landed one on my nose). None of those childhood stories involved ice climbing. Back then, my only thoughts of ice climbing were cold people bashing at ice trying to avoid the chunks that fall off as they hit the ice with their tools. Frankly, I could not understand why anyone would want to do that.

A few years ago, when I started to ice climb more frequently, I still thought it was cold and there was too much gear! It seemed that every part of my body was not only covered, but covered several layers thick. On top of that add a helmet, crampons, a harness, ice tools and a rope. I always enjoyed the freedom of rock climbing and I felt bogged down with all the equipment of ice climbing. I felt like I looked like a colorful medieval marshmallow climbing up a long ice popsicle that kept wanting to spit me off. I would find myself at the top of the climbs with excruciating pain in my hands. This was from squeezing the tools too tight, causing the blood to depart from my hands. As the blood returned it was extremely painful. I kept asking myself “how is this fun?” Over the years, my climbing skills have improved as my time on the ice increased. But, honestly, ice climbing was still never at the top of my list.

These past few days something changed. I decided to try lead climbing. To be the first one up the ice, place ice screws (ice screws are placed into the ice, then the rope is clipped to the screw, and in the event of a fall the screw keeps the climber from falling to the ground by catching the rope) and overcome my fears—the fear of falling and getting hurt, the nagging thought that I was not strong enough, the fear of failing.

I found a frozen waterfall that looked like it was within my ability. I did not say much as I suited up: crampons, harness, seven ice screws, quick draws, ice tools, courage. I was ready to have some fun….like it or not. I walked up to this 40 foot high frozen waterfall and swung my tools into the ice. They felt solid. I stepped up and kicked my feet into the ice—they stuck.

I went up about seven feet. I was calm and focused. It was time to place some protection. I pulled an ice screw off my harness and started placing pressure on it while I turned it into the ice. It went in nicely, like using one of those apple core/peeler machines my mom has. I clipped a quick draw to it followed by my rope. The familiar metallic click of the carabiner made from attaching the rope made my breathing slow. I was safe. I continued up about ten more feet and placed another ice screw. Two steps later, as I kicked my foot in, the ice broke loose. The hole that was left released splashes of water, which was pretty exciting.

Five screws later I was at the top of the climb. The deep feeling of success quickly evolved into a big smile on my face. Did I just have fun? I did. I led my first ice climb; I wasn’t cold, I was focused. I did not over-grip my ice tools (which restricts blood flow and causes numb hands); instead, I was relaxed. I overcame my obstacle of fear and doubt and challenged myself. I actually enjoyed ice climbing. I love the challenge of being on what is called the “sharp end” or taking the lead while climbing rock, and now I can apply that to climbing ice. What a great start to prepare for the big mountains in Alaska.

In a month, Mark and I fly up to Alaska to start a huge project: To be the first people to climb all of the routes in the book, The 50 Classic Climbs of North America. This project is going to take us from Alaska to New Mexico. There are climbs that will be a short half day outing in the sun to climbs that will put all of our mountaineering skills to the test. It will take us over 25,000 miles on the road and up 164,000 vertical feet during this multi-year project. We will be visiting some of the most beautiful National Parks along the way and sharing the experience with all those interested.

As we travel across the country, we are going to present slideshows to inspire our viewers to get out and recreate with their spouses. It might not be ice climbing, but a simple afternoon walk around the block together can be a powerful way to bond with your spouse. If you would like us to stop in your town, perhaps at your local outdoor shop or even in your home, please contact us. See our website for a tentative itinerary of when we will be in your neck of the woods.

Photo Credit: Erik Osterholm

JANELLE SMILEY is a mountaineering guide with Salt Mountaineering, a company she started with her husband in Crested Butte, Colorado. A 5.11 traditional multi-pitch lead climber, Janelle has been all over the world guiding, exploring, climbing and skiing… {more}